Washington Home & Garden Blogs

By Kirsten Obadal

Photo by John Arundel/WHG
Upstairs on the 11th floor, above Zen Tan, a romantic rooftop to soak in the city's sights after dinner.

"Iron Chef" Susur Lee and his black-clad staff serve up an eclectic menu with an Asian twist in the chic, candlelit venue of Zen Tan. Opened last week, the Asian fusion restaurant is tucked just off the lobby at the newly renovated, ultra-luxe Donovan House at Thomas Circle.

In what used to be the District's red light district, in a town where greasy heavy pub food and dirty martinis are standard after-work fare, operator Brett Blass of Thompson Hotels has set himself to the task of creating a mini-renaissance for the neighborhood, offering a new, hip venue for after-work cocktails and refreshingly offbeat cuisine.

Photo by Kirsten Obadal/WHG Susur Lee in action. Lee is a refined pony-tail sporting rock star with the brisk manner of a seasoned pro.

Zen Tan is the latest incarnation for chef-partner Lee. From Hong Kong by way of Toronto and New York, Lee is a refined pony-tail sporting rock star with the brisk manner of a seasoned pro.

Lee, 51, was born in Hong Kong, the youngest of six children. The celebrated chef served his culinary apprenticeship at Hong Kong's renowned Peninsula Hotel before immigrating to Canada in 1978, where he worked his way to executive chef status at a number of restaurants. Lee currently owns two restaurants in Toronto, "Madeline's" (formerly "Susur"), and "Lee." Last year he opened "Shang," located in the Thompson Hotel in New York's Lower East Side.

The internationally acclaimed restaurant Susur opened its doors in 2000, and was designed with aid from his wife, Brenda Bent (Lee's first wife died in the Korean Airlines disaster in 1983).

Recognized by Gourmet, Food & Wine, among others, "Susur" has been on various international Top 50 lists, including Restaurant's World's 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Instead of offering a traditional menu, a tasting menu is built each day from whatever inspires Lee at the marketplace that morning.

Humble manners and kung-fu star cheeckbones can’t conceal the fact that Lee has won the renowned Iron Chef competition and also tied with Throwdown Star Chef Bobby Flay on another episode. He was the second Canadian chef to appear on the Food Network's Iron Chef America, in a 2006 battle with Iron Chef Bobby Flay, resulting in a tie. The theme ingredient was bacon.

Diners at his new restaurant should be just as thrilled as the Iron Chef judges were, with no bacon this time.

Cocktails are the thing to go for while you wait for your sushi. Sip on a Mai Thai, a Pear Margarita, or a Red Cherry Mojito and dangle your chopsticks over a bowl of Singapore Slaw—the restaurant’s signature starter.

Entrees include Szechuan duck, Hong Kong style pork loin ribs, and seafood delicacies such as sauteed garlic shrimp and caramelized black cod.

In July, Zen Tan will also be open for lunch and is sure to draw the business crowd. We noted the presence of Washingtonian Publisher Cathy Merrill Williams and a full house of other young professionals on a busy Thursday evening.

Diners looking for serenity will find it in the curtained back room, with candlelight glowing through a scrim and a hush that promises romance.

Nothing was amiss in the gorgeously presented array of dishes, from sushi to appetizers to entrees to desserts. The wine list is a work in progress, and when it comes available will consist of 50 or so select bottles to pair appropriately with the fresh, clean, Asian-inspired dishes.

Lee's signature Singapore slaw salad.

General Manager Brett Blass promises more refinements in the next several months as the restaurant grows into its space. Donovan House Hotel and Zen Tan Restaurant are a part of the “Do Not Disturb” Restaurant Group owned by Thompson Hotels.

While diners settled in to their singapore slaw downstairs, meanwhile on the roof another party was in full swing.

Donovan House brings a little LA to DC with its rooftop pool and bar offering panoramic vistas of downtown DC. The golden glow of streetlights and stars provide a quiet, romantic ambience that allows the enjoyment of fresh air above the fray on the rooftop deck while still in the city.

Contact the writer at kirstenobadal@hotmail.com.

If You're Going...

Zen Tan at the Donovan House Hotel

1155 14th Street, N.W.
Washington, DC 20005
(202) 379-7066
http://www.zentanrestaurant.com/
 

Written By Kirsten Obadal
Photos by John Arundel/WHG

New York actress Rebecca Pappa, a manager at the new Publick House at National Harbor, takes a bite
out of the 2nd Annual Food and Wine Festival at National Harbor.

The second annual event offered food and wine from around the region and beyond, including Caribbean rums mixed with juices, Stella Artois beer in Steins, hand-dipped chocolates, elegant teas and special dips...not to mention Bourbon-soaked

Chef Robert Gelman of McCormick & Schmick's at National Harbor.

cupcakes. This year's event was well-attended. The waterside pavilion featured bands and musicians throughout the day and gentle breeze from the river made the day perfect.

Afficionados of locally made wine might have wondered why there was only one Virginia wine kiosk, and one Maryland winery present.

Other kiosks featured California wines and one new importer was present—locally based Bridget Thibodeau-Sasso, who will be bringing family grown wines from Italy. More on Bridget’s delightful wines in our column when her first container arrives later in the summer. Meantime, check out her import company Il Pioppo at http://piopposelections.com.

Most wine tasters passed by the Barefoot Wines kiosk. Although a nationally available brand, for this wine drinker one time around with Barefoot is enough.

However, the Black Box Wines kiosk attracted much attention. Wine drinkers were delighted by the good value wines coming in at well under $10 for 1.75 liters, with young lighter styled wines offering surprising suppleness and roundness for the price.

Black box wines are unique in their oxygen-resisting boxed packages.

A nice convenience for consumers but decidedly competing with such simple devices as the Vacu-Vin system which is also inexpensive and nearly as convenient and can be used on any bottle.

Another California winery with a large presence was Robert Mondavi. Tasters enjoyed seminars on wine, and wine and food pairing at the pleasant and spacious Mondavi kiosk. Mondavi continue to deliver a reliable and characteristically American brand from its Napa Valley home.

Maryland winery Boordy was also present. Boordy has been around for over 60 years and in that time has learned to get a few things right. Just north of Baltimore, the winery is open seven days a week for tours and tastings, making a visit a nice staycation option for those languid summer days.

Boordy has been around for over 60 years and in that time has learned to get a few things right. Just north of Baltimore, the winery is open seven days a week for tours and tastings, making a visit a nice staycation option for those languid summer days.

Especially good was a white meritage on offer, which would be a good choice for some Chesapeake Bay seafood. The old adage is true: if it grows together, it goes together. Boordy is located in Hydes, Md., and online at www.boordy.com.

Although I would have wished a stronger Virginia and Maryland wine making presence, in all fairness the festival is very young and as such is a real accomplishment for the organizers. Stay tuned as next year’s festival is sure to bring in still more new taste experiences.

Contact the writer at kirstenobadal@hotmail.com